Nano cosmetics: Implications for future cosmetic industry in Sri Lanka

Nano cosmetics: Implications for future cosmetic industry in Sri Lanka

Cosmetics and cosmeceuticals are becoming an essential need of many people worldwide, as they help in maintaining and enhancing the beauty and physical appearance of individuals, even during the ultra-busy life patterns that they are undergoing today. The term “cosmetics”, as coined by Raymond Reed in 1961, includes the products which amplify, intensify cleansing and promote the beauty of skin,¹ but do not affect the body’s structure or functions. Cosmeceuticals, on the contrary, are the cosmetic products which incorporate biologically active ingredients thereby having some therapeutic benefit¹ upon its application. In other words, cosmeceuticals can be considered as the interphase between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Both cosmetics and cosmeceuticals include several product categories, such as skincare, hair care, nail care, oral care, make-up and color cosmetics, perfumes, etc.

The vital factors driving the global cosmetic market includes rising consumer focus towards grooming and personal appearance, rapid urbanization and improved quality of life, increasing per capita disposable income of the consumers. According to ‘Allied Market Research’ global cosmetics market is expected to garner $429.8 billion by 2022, at a CAGR of 4.3% during the forecast period 2016-2022.² Another survey done by ‘Industry Research’ projects that the global cosmetic skin care market size to reach USD 135 million by 2026, from USD 128 million in 2020, at a CAGR of 4.5% during the forecasted period of 2021-2026. When considering the cosmetic market segmentation by region, the Asia-Pacific region is the largest market for cosmetics and is one of the most diverse and dynamic markets in the cosmetics industry. Skin care, sun care, hair care, color cosmetics, deodorants, and fragrances are some of the popular categories of cosmetics used in this region. The Asia-Pacific region is projected to expand at the highest growth rate as geared by the increasing population and the emerging economies in the Asia-Pacific region such as India, China, and Indonesia along with rising per capita disposable income of the consumers. Products for skin and sun care category are widely used and generate largest revenue for the Asia-Pacific cosmetics market. China holds the largest market share in skin care and sun care category, followed by Japan.³ Europe has also accounted for a significant market proportion of the global cosmetic market. One of the significant factors for the rising growth of cosmetic products is the increasing usage of anti-aging cosmetic products among consumers.²

As for any other consumer product, customers seek for improved formulae in cosmetics as well and this has resulted the incorporation of new technologies in developing cosmetics and cosmeceutical products that resolves multiple beauty related concerns within shorter periods of time. The cosmetic market in Europe has undergone a massive technological development owing to the usage of new ingredients in the production process of the cosmetic products. In addition, the demand for natural and organic cosmetic products supplement the cosmetic market growth across the world.  This demand for organic cosmetic products has been rising at a high pace in the developed economies owing to the increasing consumer awareness regarding the adverse effects of synthetic ingredients. The rising demand for natural, herbal and organic beauty products creates potential opportunities for manufacturers to innovate and develop new formulations in accordance to consumer preferences.

Believing to be the most recent technological revolution, nanotechnology also has influenced in cosmetic/ cosmeceutical industry in making more innovative products lead to better customer satisfaction. According to the reports, the cosmetics with nanomaterials were about $ 2.6 billion in 2015 and is expected to grow to $ 55.3 billion by the year 2022.³ Nanotechnology can enhance the performance and properties of cosmetics, including colour, transparency, solubility, texture, and durability.⁴ Nanocosmeceuticals have the advantages of controlled release of the active ingredient, increased efficacy and the efficiency of the product, improved sensorial properties and more stable products, which is achieved by the increased surface area of the cosmeceutical material at nanoscale thereby maximizing the high entrapment efficiency and enhanced skin penetration.¹ On the contrary, nanocosmeceuticals may also have the disadvantages of toxicity to human tissue cells due to the production of large number of reactive oxygen species, inflammation, damage to DNA, proteins and membranes by nanoparticles.¹ Application of nanotechnology in developing cosmeceuticals can be viewed in two main scenarios; (1) use of nanomaterial as the active ingredient itself (2) use of nanocarriers for effective delivery of the active materials. The nano active materials used in developing nanocosmeceuticals include nano metals (e.g. nano gold used in anti-aging applications), nano metal oxides (e.g. nano TiO₂, nano ZnO used in sun screen products) and carbon nanomaterials (e.g. carbon nano tubes used in hair colouring agents). In Australia, about 70% of sunscreens with TiO₂ and 30% of sunscreens with ZnO contain them in the form of nanoparticles.⁵ However, this category is directly challenged for their adverse toxicological effects. On the other hand, the nano carriers have grabbed the attention of many consumers due to their improved efficiency and being ‘generally regarded as safe’ (GRAS) agents in cosmetics.  These nanocarriers include nanoemulsions, nanosomes, nanospheres, niosomes, polymersomes, liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles and dendrimers.^1,4-6 Many leading cosmetic companies like L’Oreal, Henkel, Unilever, Avon, Estee Lauder and etc. are already using nanotechnology in their cosmetic product development⁴ and currently there are many nanocosmetic/ nanocosmecuetical products available in the market.^1,4

Sri Lankan cosmetic and toiletry (C&T) industry has recorded a gradual growth over last few decades. The country has approximately 120 local cosmetics and beauty care product manufacturers and more than 100 importers of such products. There are currently more than 2,500 beauty care, approximately 1,800 skin care, 1,200 hair care and over 175 baby care products in the local market. However, many of the local cosmetic manufacturers still focus on conventional formulations and manufacturing processes and very less companies are targeting to reach the international market. However, the general trend of incorporating natural ingredients can be seen to follow by many leading manufacturers. Few Sri Lankan brands have taken the steps forward to develop formulations enriched with Old Ceylon and Ayurvedic ingredients and used the same fact as the unique selling point (USP) to enter into the international market. Currently one such brand has a product range with more than 450 products of all-natural Ayurveda inspired personal care, wellness and home aroma products. However, the development of nanocosmeceuticals, is not an area tapped by many local cosmetic manufacturers yet to the best of our knowledge. The advanced gold therapy product series developed by a local cosmetic giant is a nanocosmeceutical product range with nano gold as an active ingredient. However, some international nanocosmeceutical brands like L’Oréal, Lancôme are available in local market, but remains to be premium products at high prices. Therefore, they are limited only to a very narrow market segment with very high individual disposal incomes. Moreover, some international brands with the term “Nano” as a marketing tool are also marketed in Sri Lanka through some online marketing plat forms. However, the genuineness of their claims as nanocosmeceuticals and the effectiveness of the product remains questionable. Further, due to the lack of proper regulations during past decade, Sri Lankan market was flooded with unregistered cosmetics of which quality and standards are questionable. This devastating spread of using imported cosmeceuticals with low quality not only increases the country’s foreign exchange (FOREX) outflow, but also can lead to adverse health issues in long term such as skin and other type of cancers. Hence, the development of cosmeceuticals with high quality locally, using local resources will not only maximize the use of natural and human resources in the country, but also will contribute for an innovation driven economy by strengthening the cosmeceutical industry while minimizing import expenses for such products. In addition, since 2018, all imported and locally manufactured cosmeceuticals in the Sri Lankan market are strictly regulated by National Medicines Regulatory Authority (NMRA), which is crucial in protecting the consumer.

In Sri Lankan context, cosmeceuticals related research is not very popular among local Scientists. The research undergo at the university level into this field are mostly limited to identify cosmeceutically important active ingredients of local origin rather developing into end products, whereas the R&D Departments of the local cosmetic manufacturers mainly focus on improving aesthetics of the products than improving the true quality of product. Even though, nanocosmeceuticals is research area with a huge potential for its development within the country, still it remains a relatively young field of research. The main challenges in executing nanocosmetic related research include the unavailability of the specific tools and equipment, lack of funding for the cosmeceuticals related research, lack of researchers working in the field of cosmetology, lack of collaborations across different field of research and barriers for the commercialization of research outputs due to extremely high rivalry in the cosmetic industry and low consumer awareness. However, the presence of highly talented materials scientists, nanotechnologists and biologists, the rich bio diversity of Sri Lanka that serves as a good base for cosmeceutical active ingredients,^7-11 increasing local, regional and global market for cosmeceuticals urge the initiation and development of nanocosmeceutical related research in Sri Lanka. This fact is further justified by the recent increase in interest for nanomedicine, a field with similar routes and potential as nanocosmetics, by local researchers, which is at its emerging stage in Sri Lanka.¹²

1. Kaul, S.; Gulati, N.; Verma, D.; Mukherjee, S.; Nagaich, U., 2018, Role of Nanotechnology in Cosmeceuticals: A Review of Recent Advances. Journal of Pharmaceutics, 34, 20204.
2. Nitesh C, Himanshu V, Roshan D, 2021, Cosmetics Market by Category, Gender, and Distribution Channel: Global Opportunity Analysis and Industry Forecast, 2021-2027. Allied Market Research. Viewed 05 January 2021. < https://www.alliedmarketresearch.com/cosmetics-market>
3. nilesh R, 2015, Asia-Pacific Cosmetics Market by Category (Skin & Sun Care Products, Hair Care Products, Deodorants, Makeup & Color Cosmetics, and Fragrances) and Mode of sale (Retail sales and Online sales) – Opportunity Analysis and Industry Forecast, 2014-2020. Allied Market Research. Viewed 04 January 2021. < Asia-Pacific Cosmetics Market Size, Trends, Industry Analysis (alliedmarketresearch.com)>
4. Nguyen, T. A.; Rajendran, S., 2020, Chapter 23 – Current commercial nanocosmetic products. In Nanocosmetics, Nanda, A.; Nanda, S.; Nguyen, T. A.; Rajendran, S.; Slimani, Y., Eds. Elsevier; pp 445-453.
5. Nanda, S.; Nanda, A.; Lohan, S.; Kaur, R.; Singh, B., 2016, Chapter 3 – Nanocosmetics: performance enhancement and safety assurance. In Nanobiomaterials in Galenic Formulations and Cosmetics, Grumezescu, A. M., Ed. William Andrew Publishing; pp 47-67.
6. Raj, S.; Jose, S.; Sumod, U.; Sabitha, M., 2012, Nanotechnology in cosmetics: Opportunities and challenges. Journal of Pharmacy And Bioallied Sciences, 4 (3), 186-193.
7. Juan-Badaturuge, M.; Udeshika, P. H., 2011, Medicinal Plant Applications in Cosmetics. Planta Med, 77 (05), P_111.
8. Nirmalan, T. E., 2017, Cosmetic Perspectives of Ethno-botany in Northern Part of Sri Lanka. Journal of Cosmetology & Trichology, 3 (3), 126.
9. Liyanaarachchi, G. D.; Samarasekera, J. K. R. R.; Mahanama, K. R. R.; Hemalal, K. D. P., 2018, Tyrosinase, elastase, hyaluronidase, inhibitory and antioxidant activity of Sri Lankan medicinal plants for novel cosmeceuticals. Industrial Crops and Products, 111, 597-605.
10. Perera, H. D. S. M.; Samarasekera, J. K. R. R.; Handunnetti, S. M.; Weerasena, O. V. D. S. J., 2016, In vitro anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant activities of Sri Lankan medicinal plants. Industrial Crops and Products, 94, 610-620.
11. Samaradivakara, S. P.; Samarasekera, R.; Handunnetti, S. M.; Weerasena, O. V. D. S. J., 2016, Cholinesterase, protease inhibitory and antioxidant capacities of Sri Lankan medicinal plants. Industrial Crops and Products 83, 227-234.
12. Manatunga, D. C.; de Silva, R. M.; de Silva, K. M. N., 2018, The state of nanomedicine in Sri Lanka: challenges and opportunities. Journal of Interdisciplinary Nanomedicine, 3 (2), 32-37.

Summary

Cosmetic industry is a rapidly expanding field both locally and globally. Even though cosmetics looks like simple consumer products, the development of cosmetics involves a great deal of science and technology. Nanotechnology, has been able to impact the cosmetic industry, by improving not only the aesthetics properties of the products, but also by improving the cosmetic benefit. Nanocosmetics is an emerging field in the world, which has a potential to be implemented in Sri Lankan cosmetic industry as well, which shows a huge growth potential. Specially, the cosmeceutically beneficial native ingredients value added with nanotechnology to produce nanocosmetics of local origin will open up new avenues for foreign currency generation for the country. This article summarizes the potential of this area of science and technology together with the current work done in this field locally while concluding the future potential of the research in this field in Sri Lanka.

Key Words

Nano cosmetics, cosmetics, nanotechnology, nanoencapsulation

Dr. Induni W. Siriwardane
Senior Lecturer
Faculty of Computing and Technology, University of Kelaniya